Granada

by annie

After two short days in Madrid, we hoped on a bus for a 5 hour journey to Granada, where we would stay with Brian's friend Juan. Juan greeted us at the city bus stop and walked us to his flat- a three bedroom apartment on the third floor, just near the center of town. Brian and I walked around a steep residential community before making our way to a quaint neighborhood that houses most of the city's 'teterias'- Moroccan influenced tea houses. There we had a late dinner of Moroccan food.

The next day held lots of walking in store. We accidentally took the long, car route to la Alhambra, an ancient fortress first occupied by Moorish rulers before falling into the hands of Spanish rule in 1492. Admission into the palace was steep, so we opted instead for a free walk around the grounds. The architecture is impressive:
Afterward, we walked up to the mirador in the Albaicin, where we could view la Alhambra and much of the city. After more walking, we stumbled upon a cafe with a 5 euro 'menu del dia'- a three course meal consisting of 'salmorejo' -a type of gazpacho, or 'migas'- fried bread crumbs, fish & salad and dessert. Then we relaxed in a teteria, sipping tea and nibbling on free crepes. We walked back to Juan's stopping on the way for groceries and swim trunks for Brian.
The next day, we opted for more walking and tapas. Granada is renowned for free tapas at bars, so we had a beer at a few bars just so we could try the tapas. They varied from cheese sandwiches with chips and olives, pork sandwiches or patatas bravas. We walked back up to la Alhambra to go to a nearby garden. Unfortunately, it was closed for siesta until 6pm, so we passed our time in la Alhambra. The garden was undergoing lots of construction, so when it did open, we didn't end up staying long before heading back down the hill. We then walked to the neighorhood where Brian used to work and saw the outside of the bar! Granada is a beautiful city with a heavy Moroccan influence and hot, hot climate. I was really glad to finally see where Brian used to live after hearing so many stories. It was a short but well spent time in Granada.

How to make saffron rice

by annie

I meant to post this ages ago, back when we stayed with Alfredo. He taught us how to make saffron rice. You might find saffron to be a bit expensive and here's why: saffron is the dried stigma of a flower called the saffron crocus. Each flower only has three stigmas. The stigmas must be hand plucked and dried. The good news is that a little goes a long way and the results are yummy. Enjoy!

6-7 whole cloves garlic
olive oil
saffron
aborio rice (any type will work, but this is the best)
boiling water

1) Generously coat a frying pan or sauce pan with olive oil. Heat on medium high.
2) Add whole garlic cloves and stir until lightly brown
3) Add rice (depending on how much you want) 2 cups is good for 3-4 people
4) Add 1 part boiling water for each part rice (2 cups water for 2 cups rice)
5) Once water/rice mixture starts to boil, add pinch of saffron. If the water doesn't change color, add another pinch, until water starts to turn yellow.
6) Keep stirring and add more water as you go to prevent rice from sticking to pan.
7) Continue until rice is soft and slightly gooey. It's ok if a little excess water remains, it will absorb into the rice.
8) Remove from heat and stir. Rice should be bright yellow and tasty!

you never know on the metro

by annie

He introduced himself as James Bond. A young, scrawny guy with pimples and crust in the corner of his eye, he approached us on the Madrid metro. Spaniards need less personal space than we do, so his face was very close to my face.

We had raced onto the metro after a late start, on our way to catch a bus to Granada. Standing in the aisle with our heavy packs, we must have looked alarmingly American, because it didn't take long for Mr. Bond to single us out in the crowded car. First, he offered me his seat and it took several declinations for him to accept no for an answer. Next, he pulled out a worn down American one-dollar bill and asked if we had any American money. Of course we do, we told him. He wanted to know if he could have it. What for? we asked. He's going to Washington in August and wants a donation. As simple as that. Brian told him that he should stay in Madrid- a nice way of saying, "hell no, you can't have our money!" Lookers-on were smirking, we were amused and his happy face remained close to mine until we shook hands and he departed the train.