Pai

We thought we outsmarted the guards. But as we hugged the bank of the hotspring, naked, squinting into the beams of two flashlights, we realized we were wrong. Thai's value modesty, so being caught naked is probably one of the worst farang faux-pas (farang means foreigner, and not usually in a good way). First we tried to drive in on our motorbikes, but they wanted to charge us 200 baht each. Then we parked in the dark down the road, walked back and sneaked around the guard's station, trying not to laugh or make sounds as we tripped blindly over shrubs and roots. We still couldn't find a way in. Our last resort? Bribe the guards. The hotspring was closed after all, and charging us the normal price was proof they were looking to make some pocket money. By the time we made it back on our bikes, the guards were gone. We kept driving and settled into one of the hotter pools, only a sliver of moon and sparkling stars lit the water. We soaked for about 15 minutes before the getting caught; with the heat of the pool, it was just long enough. Instead of fining us, the guards seemed more interested in the contents of a nearby garbage can.

Five Americans and one German strong, we made quite the motorbike posse. I was too scared to learn how to ride amidst the curvy roads surrounding Pai, so Bonnie and others were kind enough to tote me around on the back of theirs. We took a winding road north through peaks of mountains and stopped at a viewpoint for stunning vistas, clean air and grilled sweet potatoes. We continued on to a cave, but couldn't afford the mandatory guide and bamboo raft. Two years ago, all the hotsprings and caves were either free or barely charged. Now, with a recent tourist boom, the natural beauty of the area often comes with a price. No matter, we made our way down a dirt road and then a narrow footpath (on our motorbikes!) in an attempt to get to the base of a giant cliff. Based on the reactions of grazing cattle, it didn't seem like many of the locals use motorbikes on that path. Eventually, muddy crossings and steep inclines prevented us continuing our journey on bikes. We parked and hiked up rough fields and through jungles of brambles and bamboo before eventually we couldn't get farther on foot. I was wearing flip-flops, so I went barefoot most of the way, caking my feet in mud, stepping on a few brambles and enjoying the Thai landscape passing through my toes. We passed bamboo shanties of farmers and they gave Bonnie and Steve a bag of something we haven't yet identified.

It was dark on the way back, and I forgot to pack warm clothes. My teeth chattered, especially downhill. Tilman cut the engine and we floated downhill without a headlight, through curves and almost into some cows chewing in the middle of the road (unflinching, of course). The sun had set over the mountains and a pink glow hovered above them. Amazing. To get the chill out of my bones, I went straight to the herbal steam sauna when I got back to Pai. The smell of licorice filled my lungs, steam seared my face, it was a perfect end to a beautiful day.

The next night we celebrated Tino's birthday by sending off a couple of lanterns. We sent fireworks after the second one, trying to shoot it down. It floated high enough to appear the size of a star.

In the three hours in took to drive from Chiang Mai to Pai, we rounded 762 curves. Don't worry, I planned ahead and took a Dramamine- didn't feel a thing! The heart of Pai consists of a handful of streets filled with shops, restaurants, and guesthouses. The streets transform into a market each night, with souvenirs, black sesame pancakes and chrysanthemum tea at every turn. I stayed across the river in a bamboo hut, overlooking fields, mountains and spectacular sunsets. I spent plenty of time in my hammock and had to huddle in blankets at night to stay warm. I splurged $6 for a traditional Thai massage that ranks in the top 2 of all time. I followed it with an herbal steam sauna- just thinking about it makes me relax.

Reluctantly, I left Pai after 8 days. I made my way down to Chiang Mai for 2 nights and then on to Chiang Khong, a border town set on the Mekong River. From here, I crossed into Laos.

Here's pics of Pai:

Pai

If you missed my account of lovely Chiang Mai, click HERE.