Traveler's Pantry: Hue and Hoi An: getting central

Hue
Hue is much smaller than Hanoi, yet tourism seems to make up a larger percentage of the local economy. After ordering food in a restaurant, the server would often sit down at my table and try to sell me motorbike tours, silk paintings or bus tickets. Walking down the sidewalks was an open invitation for harassment ("excuse me! buy something!"). Each region has it's own special cuisine, and in Hue, my favorite was roll-your-own spring rolls with veggies, shrimp, salad and green figs dipped in homemade peanut sauce.

I also had a light, nutty local beer called Huda. On New Year's Eve, dragon dancers performed in the streets.

Within city limits, the ancient citadel is quite the place to explore, with emperor quarters and remains of buildings that survived American bombing.

Over a crispy baguette breakfast, I met Thoan, a motorbike tour guide. He promised to take me to four sites outside the city for an unbeatable price of $5. We started at the Thien Mu Pagoda, a beautiful temple with a tower overlooking the Perfume River. It's also the home to the car Thich Quang Duc drove to Siagon in 1963 to burn himself to death in protest of religious restrictions imposed by the government.

Next was Tuc Duc tomb, a sprawling set of monuments and tombs dedicated to the emperor Tuc Duc and his family. The most impressive part was the landscape.

We stopped in a village known for making cinnamon and sandalwood incense, and watched it made by hand.

We arrived at Tu Hieu Pagoda in time to watch the monks sing, strike singing bowls and pray.

The final stop was an American bunker used during the Vietnam war with spectacular views of the river.

Here's me in front of the citadel:

Hoi An

Hoi An sits 4km from the beach and is well-known for it's French colonial architechture and superb tailor shops. The old quarter is charming, albeit touristy, with red and white silk lanterns lining the streets and hanging from the trees. The river lights up at night, a truly magical sight of colorful lights reflected in the glassy water, floating lotus lanterns and, in my case, a full moon.

I stopped in an art gallery housed in traditional 2oo year-old home and met a wonderful tourguide. He gave me lots of information about the art, the home and Hoi An... without trying to sell me a thing! And he smiled! I also toured a gallery of Agar wood sculptures and products. Agar wood comes from the resin of certain trees after the sap hardens over several decades. It's believed to have healing and aphrodisiac properties. Wearing the wood is said to draw toxins out of the body.

I rode a bicycle to the beach, taking in beautiful views of fresh, green rice fields. At the beach, I sunbathed, braved rough waves and walked along the shore watching local fisherman.

Hoi An boasts amazing food and a plentiful market. Two local specialities include "white rose" and Cau Lau. White rose are tiny shrimp dumplings dipped in sauce.

Cau Lau is fresh chewy noodles, sprouts, pork (or tofu) and salad greens served in a thick savory broth made with water from the local Ba Le well. Other treats include lemongrass pho (see below) and plenty of stir-fries. All over Vietnam, you can get strong coffee, usually served with sweetened milk on the bottom of your glass.