Pai

We thought we outsmarted the guards. But as we hugged the bank of the hotspring, naked, squinting into the beams of two flashlights, we realized we were wrong. Thai's value modesty, so being caught naked is probably one of the worst farang faux-pas (farang means foreigner, and not usually in a good way). First we tried to drive in on our motorbikes, but they wanted to charge us 200 baht each. Then we parked in the dark down the road, walked back and sneaked around the guard's station, trying not to laugh or make sounds as we tripped blindly over shrubs and roots. We still couldn't find a way in. Our last resort? Bribe the guards. The hotspring was closed after all, and charging us the normal price was proof they were looking to make some pocket money. By the time we made it back on our bikes, the guards were gone. We kept driving and settled into one of the hotter pools, only a sliver of moon and sparkling stars lit the water. We soaked for about 15 minutes before the getting caught; with the heat of the pool, it was just long enough. Instead of fining us, the guards seemed more interested in the contents of a nearby garbage can.

Five Americans and one German strong, we made quite the motorbike posse. I was too scared to learn how to ride amidst the curvy roads surrounding Pai, so Bonnie and others were kind enough to tote me around on the back of theirs. We took a winding road north through peaks of mountains and stopped at a viewpoint for stunning vistas, clean air and grilled sweet potatoes. We continued on to a cave, but couldn't afford the mandatory guide and bamboo raft. Two years ago, all the hotsprings and caves were either free or barely charged. Now, with a recent tourist boom, the natural beauty of the area often comes with a price. No matter, we made our way down a dirt road and then a narrow footpath (on our motorbikes!) in an attempt to get to the base of a giant cliff. Based on the reactions of grazing cattle, it didn't seem like many of the locals use motorbikes on that path. Eventually, muddy crossings and steep inclines prevented us continuing our journey on bikes. We parked and hiked up rough fields and through jungles of brambles and bamboo before eventually we couldn't get farther on foot. I was wearing flip-flops, so I went barefoot most of the way, caking my feet in mud, stepping on a few brambles and enjoying the Thai landscape passing through my toes. We passed bamboo shanties of farmers and they gave Bonnie and Steve a bag of something we haven't yet identified.

It was dark on the way back, and I forgot to pack warm clothes. My teeth chattered, especially downhill. Tilman cut the engine and we floated downhill without a headlight, through curves and almost into some cows chewing in the middle of the road (unflinching, of course). The sun had set over the mountains and a pink glow hovered above them. Amazing. To get the chill out of my bones, I went straight to the herbal steam sauna when I got back to Pai. The smell of licorice filled my lungs, steam seared my face, it was a perfect end to a beautiful day.

The next night we celebrated Tino's birthday by sending off a couple of lanterns. We sent fireworks after the second one, trying to shoot it down. It floated high enough to appear the size of a star.

In the three hours in took to drive from Chiang Mai to Pai, we rounded 762 curves. Don't worry, I planned ahead and took a Dramamine- didn't feel a thing! The heart of Pai consists of a handful of streets filled with shops, restaurants, and guesthouses. The streets transform into a market each night, with souvenirs, black sesame pancakes and chrysanthemum tea at every turn. I stayed across the river in a bamboo hut, overlooking fields, mountains and spectacular sunsets. I spent plenty of time in my hammock and had to huddle in blankets at night to stay warm. I splurged $6 for a traditional Thai massage that ranks in the top 2 of all time. I followed it with an herbal steam sauna- just thinking about it makes me relax.

Reluctantly, I left Pai after 8 days. I made my way down to Chiang Mai for 2 nights and then on to Chiang Khong, a border town set on the Mekong River. From here, I crossed into Laos.

Here's pics of Pai:

Pai

If you missed my account of lovely Chiang Mai, click HERE.

Chiang Mai

Khao Soi is a traditional northern Thai dish consisting of rich coconut curry soup, thick noodles, mushrooms, tofu (or meat) and crispy noodles on top. It's eaten with chopsticks, lime, fresh sprouts and pickled greens. Some eat it with whole cloves of garlic and hot peppers as well. I had my first introduction to the dish at Pok-Pok in Portland, and ever since then I've wanted to try the real deal (if you live in Portland and order Khao Soi at Pok-Pok, it would be kind of like you and me having dinner together across the world. just sayin').

Chiang Mai is a popular place for foodies both because of the top-notch cuisine at stellar prices and also the culinary schools where you can learn to cook authentic Thai food. Vegetarians rejoice at the options here. It's easy to find real coffee, grown in the nearby mountains.

Chiang Mai has an old city, where most of the Wats (temples), restaurants and guesthouses reside. It's a popular place to visit, so it took me a while to find a guesthouse with an empty room. Everything in Chiang Mai can be had for less than Bangkok. Getting around is best done on foot.

I spent 9 slow days in Chiang Mai, long enough to develop favorite spots and recognition from the locals. I settled into a nice routine, spending most of my days writing, walking, visiting Wats, reading and exploring my thoughts over fruit shakes. I took roughly 3 cold showers each day and usually couldn't fall asleep before 2 0r 3am due to the heat. My favorite breakfast consisted of boiled rice soup with tofu and poached egg. Wat Phra Singh, in the heart of the old city, quickly became one of my favorite places to write. It's home to several temples and a luxurious garden full of shade, tables and wooden Buddhist sayings nailed to the trees. It is ever so quiet, aside from the occasional high school student wanting to practice English. They ask impossible questions, like "What do you want in future?" or "What is touristic in your country?" It's a big country, I told them, but mentioned Yosemite and New York so we could move on to the next question. "What do you know of Thai people?" they continued, as a group of them crowded around to watch. "What do you know of political situation in Thailand?" Maybe you could tell me about it, I suggested. She didn't know anything about it. The worst part is, they recorded the conversation and took my picture. There is a record- a record!- of all my awkward responses to their much too broad questions.Each Sunday night, the streets transform into one of my all-time favorite markets. Stalls hawk traditional handicrafts from nearby hilltribes, modern crafts from local city-dwellers, and tasty street food. Although it's called a "walking street," the crowds force more of a crawl. I thought all my senses might explode as I took in all the creative energy. Additionally, there are two nightly night markets- one sells cheap food and the other is a full-on craft bazaar that sprawls over several street blocks, malls and shopping centers.
On my last night, I met up with Tilman, a friend from Bottle Beach. We hopped on his motorbike and rode to the nearby Wat Suan Dok to watch the sun setting on the golden stupa.

I hated to leave Chiang Mai- I could live there!- but I knew another paradise awaited me in the mountain town of Pai.

If you missed the journey from the islands to Bangkok, click HERE.

Prachuab, a Thai massage and November's full moon

After such a slow pace on Bottle Beach, it only seemed fitting to make my way slowly back up towards Bangkok. I spent a night each in Surat Thani and Chumpon, port towns most commonly used as stopovers to the gulf islands. Next, I stopped in a tiny town called Prachuab, set in the middle of three gorgeous bays. I spent two lazy days there, maintaining the relaxed vibe from Bottle Beach. Not many tourists stop in Prachuab, which means less English-speaking natives and less vegetarian food.

At the top of a big hill, a tribe of monkeys greeted me. They looked me in the eye with expressions strangely resembling troubled faces of old men. Apparently these monkeys hopped a bus from Bangkok in search of mangos. They are well-fed, as evidenced by all the corncobs, peanut shells and banana peels littering the steps. From the top, I could see all three bays, the town of Prachuab and the mountains to the west. After being chased by a monkey (to the amusement of a group of tourists), I decided to make my way back down the hill. I stumbled upon a free lunch at the nearby temple. Prachuab has a lovely night market, selling meals from carts, mostly seafood.

From Prachuab, I took a bus to Bangkok and arrived just in time to enjoy the Loi Krathong festival, an annual event held on the full moon of November. Vendors lined the streets selling floats of flowers, banana leaves and baked bread in the shape of turtles. Each float has incense and a candle to be lit before placed in the river. Dance, martial art and music performances scattered the lawn near the river. Attendees munched on carnival food and swarmed to the river to send off a float. Lanterns floated in the sky until they burst and fell, flame extinguished. I bought a float with purple orchids and sent it down the river.

Also in Bangkok, I got my first Thai massage. I changed into loose cotton garments and laid down on a low bed. Despite my distracted masseuse texting and taking phone calls, she gave me a good massage. Thai massage focuses on the body's energy meridians; in addition to pressing strategic points on the meridians, the masseuse move your body into all kinds of positions, ones you've never attained yourself... not even in yoga class. She used her own body to stretch mine, wrapping her feet around my legs and pushing hard. She served me herbal tea and gave me a discount (I assume because of all the texting). I felt great afterward and was sore for two days.

While I waited for my Vietnamese visa to come through, I had time to visit more sights, including Wat Arun. Located on the river bank, it towers 250 feet high and takes courage to climb up and down the steep stairs. The surface is composed of tiny mosaic tiles.


I took a 10-hour overnight bus north, to Chiang Mai- haven of all things healthy with temples on almost every block and fantastic cuisine.



If you missed coconut shakes, tree swings and the lazy days of Bottle Beach, HERE it is.

Bottle Beach

I will remember Bottle Beach. It will stick out in my head years later when I think of Thailand. It's not so much what happened there, what happened there was not much at all. It's the feeling of the place, the people of the place, the pace of life there.

I arrived by way of as many methods possible. From Surat Thani, I took a minibus to a bus, a bus to a ferry, a ferry to Koh Phangan Island, a tuk-tuk to Chalok Lum beach and finally a longtail boat to the secluded cove of Bottle Beach. Phew!

A man who calls himself "50 cent" or "Alex" greeted me as I stepped into shallow water and onto shore. He told me it was "happy hour" for his bungalows, and led me to a hut with a porch overlooking the ocean. It cost $5 a night. I settled in and met "50 cent," who by then took to calling me "shorty," at the restaurant. Over masuman curry, he explained to me that all my expenses would accumulate on a tab instead of paying as I went, just one more thing to make life as easy as possible. I walked along the beach, marvelling at the longtail boats, picturesque, yet oddly named. Boats with names like "Snoop Dogg" and "No Money, No Honey" lined the shore, swaying gently in ripples too small to be waves. I sat atop large rocks overlooking the water and watched the clouds turn pink from the sun setting somewhere behind the mountains. I revelled in the quiet surrounding me; only a few other beachgoers dotted the sand. There wasn't a store or annoying tuk-tuk driver in sight. Instead, I could see only a handful of resorts tucked behind coconut trees.

With peaceful sleep in mind, I drifted off, only to be awakened by a terrifying thunderstorm shaking my hut. Lightening pierced through the shutters, through the curtains and through my closed eyelids. Less than one second passed between thunder and lightening. My fingers went numb from plugging my ears. I even prayed to a god I don't believe in. I tried not to think of how tempting my tin roof must have seemed to the lightening. All was calm and sunny the next morning as I walked, barefoot, to eat breakfast in a bamboo gazebo on the beach. I remained barefoot for the next week.

At once, the pace of my life slowed to a halt. Bottle Beach demands you relax simply by limiting your choice of activities. Among my options, certain things repeated at least once a day: sipping coconut shakes, swinging under the shade of the trees and swiming in the warm, calm waters. I spent the rest of my time walking the beach, writing and laying in the sand. I finished a book and started another. Once, I even killed a coconut with a picnic knife. It was by far the most strenuous thing a did all week. By night, I ate dinner with other travellers. We sat around bonfires, watched the Thai guys dance with fire, played poker and Connect 4, sipped awful rum and cokes, laid around in hammocks and played silly games to keep our minds from wandering too far. The Thai guys that worked on Bottle Beach always kept us entertained. To the ladies, they were constantly calling, "I love you long time!" To the guys they would say, "you my brudda from anudda mudda!"

Bottle Beach is a place you can find yourself long after you intended to leave. I managed to pull myself away after a weeks time, and headed inland, bound for northern Thailand. I stopped in many places along the way...details to follow shortly! To find more pictures, click below.

Bottle Beach, Koh Phangan Island

You can find all the scoop on Phuket, the Vegetarian Festival and monks with swords in their cheeks HERE.

Phuket Town, the Vegetarian Festival and two Thai beaches

If you've ever seen the movie, the Beach, you might remember the scenes in a hotel called "On On" where Leonardo DiCaprio meets a crazy man who gives him a map to the secret beach. I hadn't actually seen the movie until after I stayed at On On my first night in Phuket Town (pronounced poo-get). Still, I should have taken fair warning when another traveler handed in a can of bug killer as she checked out. It was 7am and I had just arrived after taking an overnight bus from Bangkok. My pack weighed heavily after a decent walk from the bus station. It couldn't hurt to stay one night, right? By afternoon, I felt differently. Giant cockroaches crawled out of my squat toilet. I ran for the front desk, where the guy first held up a can of air spray (I later realized that the toilets emit an unpleasant smell during the heat of the day) and finally gave me the insect killer. I sprayed my bathroom three times, until the can emptied. The dirty walls were covered in yellow splotches of paint, an attempt to cover up warning messages from other travelers. I could still read some of them, and wished I had noticed sooner. The staff made no apologies for the roaches, and just as I was drifting off to sleep I heard yells down the hall, followed by the thump of a thrown shoe and cheers of victory. I wasn't the only one with bug problems.

Luckily, I found a cleaner, cheaper hostel on the main street of town, where I could better enjoy the upcoming Vegetarian Festival. Before the event started, I explored the town, climbed up a big hill overlooking the city and ventured out to two beaches- Kata and Kamala. Phuket Town is located on the island of Phuket, an easy commute to many different beaches. I chose Kata and Kamala because of their mellow reputation. On both beaches, I enjoyed sunbathing and swimming in the slippery turquoise water. I only had to share the beaches with a handful of others.

By the time the festival started, the main street boasted stall after stall of amazing vegetarian food, packed with pedestrians perusing their options. For a veggie like me, it was amazing to be able to eat anything I saw as I walked along the street. And tempting it was: steamed sweet rolls, fake meat on a skewer, fresh tropical fruit, noodle soup, coconut pudding balls, corn on the cob, roasted chestnuts, fried EVERYTHING, fresh spring rolls, morning glory leaves stuffed with coconut, starfruit, peanuts and ginger, tofu cooked in every possible way, and so on. My favorites included noodle soup with crunchy wood-ear and white-flower mushrooms, steamed corn buns, vermicelli topped with thick curry, pickled greens, sprouts, pineapple, cucumber and fresh greens, fake meat skewers with chili sauce and the best mango sticky rice I have ever tasted.

Before the festival begins, a pole of bamboo is decorated with gold leaf and then raised to bring the power of the gods to the event. Another American, Kuulani, and I went to the temple and placed some gold leaves on the pole. We were pleased to see it raised the next day. On the evening of the opening ceremony, we went to watch the monks go into trance. They welcomed the spirits, one by one, clad in white pants and a colorful apron. They stood over the smoke of incense, shaking their heads back and forth as if saying "no" over and over again, breathing heavily through their mouths and mumbling, whispering or sometimes yelping like monkeys. Big drums beat slowly in the temple and they raised their flags at the sound of a chime, rocking back and forth from one foot to the other. At first, I felt extremely nervous, and doom filled my stomach as I thought they were to begin the acts of self-mutilation. They all carried something harmful like a spear or a whip. Once I realized that it was a peaceful demonstration, I relaxed and was quickly absorbed into the the feeling of the ceremony.

Phuket historically contains a high percentage of Chinese inhabitants. When they first arrived in Phuket, the settlers became extremely ill, and abstained from meat to purify their body. The vegetarian diet worked and most of the sick were cured. Since then, the Vegetarian Festival has been repeated each year. In accordance with the Chinese calendar, the festival lasts for the first 9 days of the 9th lunar month. It is not a festival of vegetarians flocking to the area; rather, it's meat-eaters choosing to abstain from meat, alcohol and sex as a purification ritual for the body. Thus, those in attendance wear all white clothing as a symbol of purity. The festival is celebrated all over Thailand, yet Phuket leads the way, with Thai tourists swarming in from all over to attend.

Throughout all the processions, people throw fire-poppers at the feet of monks to scare away the bad spirits. The monks also demonstrate the power of their gods by undertaking acts of self-mutilation during their trance. It is said that they do not feel the pain during their demonstration and they heal quickly after the festival is over.

During the morning procession, I saw the monks walking with all kinds of things stuck in their cheeks, such as vegetables, swords, guns, and even a large chain connecting three monks through their cheeks. They don't appear to be comfortable, yet they didn't show signs of pain either.
The afternoon procession followed a ceremony blessing the food. Giant pots of food and rice were placed steaming in front of the altar. The monks came by, placing incense in the food and blessing it with the dragon tips of their whips. Men prepared bowls of food for the gods and placed them near the altar. Then, the crowds of people followed the monks into the streets for the procession. I joined them, and witnessed at every intersection a circle formation of monks wildly throwing axes over their shoulders and yelling. I turned, horrified, to find right next to me a monk sharpening his axe on his tongue, blood spilling down his chin. Later, I saw another monk hitting his forehead repeatedly with a sword. In the video below, you can see the circle of axe-swinging monks. If you look closely, you'll see one kneeling on the ground shaking his tongue back and forth against the blade of a sword.





The evening procession was intense in it's own way. Crowds dressed in white lined the streets, holding fire-poppers and amateur fireworks. Monks skipped through the streets, fireworks went off from every direction (often set off by little kids) and processions of drums and altars flashed by. Some monks would stop and bless babies, others handed out candy, and a few stood patiently while people threw fire-poppers under their feet. It was loud, it was crazy, it was a good farewell parade for me. I left the next morning, before the monks walked on coals and climbed ladders made of knives.

I made my way to Surat Thani, a gateway to many islands in the Gulf of Thailand. There, I spent one night and stumbled across the Chinese Temple. Kind women ushered me to the back of the temple, where they served vegetarian food free of charge. They handed me a bowl of rice and motioned for me to sit at a table with three other women. In the middle of the table, we shared dishes of sweet and sour vegetables, fake meat soup, yellow curry and crunchy greens. The cook asked me in Thai if the food was delicious or not delicious. I said delicious. One woman at my table spoke English and asked me questions about my life and travel plans. Another woman kept arranging the food and pushing it towards me. The third woman asked me again if the food was delicious or not. The woman that spoke English explained to me that most people find vegetarian food to be too bland. I kept saying that since I only eat vegetarian food their food tasted amazing to me. After I couldn't eat any more, I sat there among the women while they spoke in Thai, so grateful to be among them and their motherly tendencies towards me.

I left on a ferry early the next morning on my way to Koh Phangan Island. More to come...


Click HERE for more pics of Phuket. Careful if you're squeamish!



...And if you missed Bangkok, you can find it HERE.

Bangkok: My first week in Thailand

After a sleepless night on the plane, I landed in Bangkok at 9:30am (4:30am, Europe time). The bus to Banglamphu took 2 hours due to traffic jams. As soon as I got off the bus, the sky opened up, drenching me and my pack with rain. I stood under a vendor's umbrella, but eventually gave in to the weight of my pack and looked for a place to stay. I drudged from guesthouse to guesthouse, looking for the best deal. I finally found a reasonable room with a fan and a window. The receptionist gave me a deal without even having to ask. I spent the day trying to stay awake by walking around the neighborhood. Banglamphu is the backpacker hood. The streets are filled with guesthouses, food carts and clothing stalls. Tuk-tuk drivers wait on every corner, women in colorful hats walk the streets selling handicrafts and there seem to be more foreigners than locals. I spent the next week getting to know Bangkok.

Sights

Wat Pho: After a ride down the Mae Nam Chao Phraya River, I stopped at Wat Pho to see the city's largest and most ancient temple. It contains Thailand's largest reclining Buddha at 150 feet long and 50 feet tall, covered in gold. Scattered around the site are various temples displaying more Buddhas. In several, I removed my shoes and sat before the altars. The grounds make for a beautiful place to walk and the reclining Buddha is quite the spectacle.

In a nearby park, I sat down to rest my feet. Pecking pigeons covered the ground around me. A small Thai boy ran up to the pigeons, displaying his fiercest karate moves and yelled "You know what's happenin'!" He paused for their reaction and walked away nonchalantly. Awesome.

China Town and Little India: From Wat Pho, I walked to Chinatown to find all kinds of narrow covered markets, Chinese restaurants and nearby Phahurat- Bangkok's Indian neighborhood. In China town, there are a few square blocks of shops selling "hot" goods.

Siam Square: I spent about two hours looking for the Khlong taxi (canal boat) that would take me to Bangkok's commercial center, Siam Square. I finally found it after a long walk past temples, major intersections and a man selling paintings of the King. Siam Square hosts no less than 4 huge shopping malls, ranging from 4-7 floors each. Each mall is connected to the others by pedestrian bridges. One of these malls is home to the famous MBK food court, a place where you can find all sorts of Thai dishes cooked in front of you for about $1. It's also where I had my first introduction to jelly desserts. Either coconut milk ice cream or snow ice are topped with coconut syrup and your choice of colorful morsels, including taro pudding, kidney beans, neon jellies, corn, barley, lychee jelly and other things I couldn't quite identify. The chaotic atmosphere of Siam Square makes for wonderful people watching. School girls in uniform giggle their way around the malls, security guards haunt the aisles of shops and women show off the latest fashion.

Erwan Shrine: Fenced on a corner, in the midst of Siam Square, Erwan Shrine attracts locals and their wishes. A band and colorfully adorned dancers await those who return to Erwan shrine to pay their respects for a wish granted- traditional custom is to hire the band. The shrine sits below massive Burberry windows, sandwiched between two busy streets. Once you walk into the gate, the noise of buses and motorcycles fades along with the pedestrian traffic making its way towards the shopping malls. The golden shrine seems small compared to its surroundings and the magical presence it holds. I paid 60 cents for a package of incense, wreath of marigolds and candle and stood with the others waiting to light their incense in one of the four lanterns. Awkwardly holding the lit incense, wreath and unlit candle (it was windy!), I made my wish and placed the incense and wreath in front of the shrine. If my wish comes true, I'll have to return to hire the band- just another reason to come back to Bangkok.

Chatuchak Market: The biggest outdoor market in Bangkok, Chatuchak reportedly contains over 15,000 stalls, selling clothes, housewares, furniture, handicrafts, food and animals. It's easy to get lost and find yourself in an aisle selling maggots, crickets and chickens caged underneath overturned wooden baskets. For a budget traveler like me, it probably isn't the best place to go, given how easy it is to justify cheap purchases. I managed to only splurge $3 on a shirt. It was a sweltering day, so I cooled down with the juice of a fresh coconut.

Transportation

Boat: Despite my traumatic ferry ride (see Vomitous Voyage), I've really come around to water transport, at least the short term kind. Here in Bangkok, you can hop on an express boat that travels the length of the river or take a khlong taxi boat through the canals. Water travel cuts your time significantly as there are no traffic jams! Riding the taxi boat is much different than the express boat- smaller, cheaper, less crowded and wetter. The sides of the boat don blue tarp, but I still managed to get splashed.

Sky-tram: From Siam Square, I took the mod sky-tram to the hospital for vaccines. It's like the L train in Chicago, but nicer. TVs show commercials, and it blasts air conditioning on sweaty passengers.

Bus: There are two kinds of buses in Bangkok- air conditioned and non. The air-con buses cost about twice as much at 50 cents a ride. Bus travel takes patience because drivers compete with stopped traffic. Sometimes you flag down a bus, like you would a taxi. Sometimes the bus driver doesn't come to a complete stop when picking you up or letting you off. Sometimes the driver lets you out into another lane of traffic. It can be tricky getting on and off the bus while maintaining a reasonable amount of street cred. Nevertheless, I love riding the buses, especially when lucky enough to grab a seat.

Walking: Walking obviously lets you take in more of the city through noises, smells, and pedestrian activity. A tourist like me is usually confronted by tuk-tuk drivers trying to score a ride. Crossing the street can be a bit of a gamble- even if there are pedestrian traffic lights, often cabs and motorcycles disobey traffic lights. It's best to go one step at a time, or in some cases, run. My feet get sore from wearing flip-flops all the time, but I still love travel by foot.

Food (aka heaven)

Breakfast: Although Banglamphu caters to western diets, with bacon and eggs on restaurant menus, I prefer to eat like the locals. They might eat noodle soup or curry for breakfast. I've also tried typical Thai standards like sweet & sour and picked up breakfast treats from street vendors like green onion dumplings and sticky rice pockets stuffed with taro and lemongrass coconut, wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled.

Lunch/Dinner: Street food usually costs between 30 cents and $1.50 a meal. I'll just list my favorites: 50 cent pad thai; bean curd & curry noodles with pickled greens, sprouts and shredded cabbage; mushroom and sesame noodle soup; and tofu with garlic sauce. The other day for lunch, I stopped into a small restaurant called "the Joy Luck Club" with picturesque seashell scenes underneath the glass tabletops. Three women and a small girl sat around a table arranging orchids, laughing and chatting. They asked me to rate one of the arrangements. They seemed to think that the middle stem, much taller than the rest, looked awkward. I gave it a 9.5 and they laughed. They gave me a small dish of shredded taro chips to munch on while the cook, also a woman, prepared mushrooms and basil with little balls of vermicelli. It was the young girl who took my order. She handled her notebook with authority, shooing away her older brother when he asked "want some drink?"

Snacks: Snacks are fun and usually come served in a plastic bag with a wooden stick as a utensil. For instance, grilled calamari is cut into slices off the grill, put in a plastic bag and doused with chili sauce and vinegar sauce. Also served in a bag, is freshly cut fruit. I picked guava, a round, green, bumpy fruit with a dry, white flesh. I sprinkled it with chili sugar and ate it with a stick. Tropical fruit smoothies are also popular.

Spice: The food here never disappoints with it's intense flavor and spice. The spice is strong, but not overpowering. The heat generally leaves quickly, or else stays dormant in your throat until you cough. Although I don't usually like spicy food, the quality of spice here doesn't bother me and adds a depth of flavor that can't be beat.

Miscellaneous
When I was growing up, my parents would take my sister and I for ice cream if we got good grades on our report cards. We usually went to Swensen's in Friendly Center, until it closed down. You know, the one with the choo-choo train circling around the restaurant? I see Swensen's everywhere in Bangkok! It's also hard to go a block without seeing a 7-11.

The vibe here strikes an interesting balance between chaotic and relaxed. There's always something to engage the senses, but I never feel rushed or overwhelmed.

The rainy season lasts until the end of October. It's hot, humid and usually rains heavily once a day. It doesn't take long for the skies to clear up and the rains bring a welcome cool-down to the constant heat. It's not unusual to need to take 2 cold showers a day.

After a lovely week in Bangkok, I'm on my way south to Phuket for the vegetarian festival.

Find pics here:

Bangkok

I'm finally here

It all started my freshman year of college. My friends and I went to "Taste of Thai" for dinner at least twice a week. We had a crush on our waiter and he told us all the lovely things about Thailand. We told him we'd visit someday.

My senior year of college, I spent my time scooping up dog poop and walking high-end poodles on treadmills so I could save up to go to China. I even had my plane ticket. For reasons I won't mention here, that trip fell through.

Three and a half years ago, engaged to the wrong man, we planned our honeymoon to Vietnam. We even had our plane tickets. Since we canceled the wedding at the last minute, a trip abroad together didn't quite seem right.

Folks, I've been trying to get to Asia for a long time. I'm finally here.

It should come as no surprise, then, that I absolutely love Thailand. Each day, I choke back tears of joy just because I'm actually here. I might be taking the express boat down the river to visit a temple; I could be walking down a street lined with carts selling food I've never seen before; Or I could be exchanging deep smiles with the friendly people here. And it hits me hard: here I am, where I've wanted to be for so long. I'm finally, finally here.


If you missed my account of Budapest, click HERE. And stay tuned for my adventures in Bangkok!